How to Build a Crossbuck Fence

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The Crossbuck Fence is one of the many Post and Rail fence styles. This style fence has a traditional classic look that has graced many homes overtime and can be found stretching the length of country roads and lining the fields of horse farms.

There are many variations in architectural detailing to the crossbuck fence ranging from intricate and elegant to simple and casual. It has an open airy feel while also providing a semi-private feel to your yard.

The design we decided on here is simple in detailing and easy to build. We will explain how to build one 8’ section of a crossbuck fence. However, you will need to determine the number of fence sections and their lengths (can’t be greater than an 8’ span) you will need for your application or situation.

Before we get to how to calculate the number of fence sections and posts, the following things need to be taken care of:

• If any part of your fence will be installed near property lines, hire a professional surveyor to locate those property lines, any setbacks, any easements, and other things required by your local building department.
• Talk to your local building department for all the building code requirements that your fence design and installation must comply with; these may include, but are not limited to: height, footings (materials, widths, depths), frost line depth, setbacks, easements, permits.
• Before you dig, Call 8-1-1 to have all of your underground utilities located.

Materials:

This list of materials is for one 8’ section of the crossbuck fence (See Sketch A).

The amount of materials you will need to build this fence will depend on your fencing project. Once you know the total length of fence you will be installing, you can calculate the number of posts, post caps, board length, hardware, and footing material you will need for your fence. If you need help with this, your local lumber yard will more than likely be able to assist. Also, this is a good time to select what finish (stain, paint) you would like your fence to have. Make sure when you are ready to build this fence, as with any project, when working with tools whether hand or power put safety first, and wear your safety glasses also.

Wood: You can choose from several different types of wood. Pressure-treated wood is chemically treated to prevent decay, and Cedar wood has a natural decay and insect resistant properties. The wood needed to complete one 8’ section of fence (post to post) is:

• 2 - 6x6 Post
• 1 - 2 x 6 Top Rail
• 1 - 2 x 6 Bottom Rail
• 2 - 1 x 4 Crossbuck or Diagonal Rails
• 2 - 1 x 4 Post Trim

Hardware:
When selecting your hardware, make sure you use rust resistant screws. Either double hot-dipped galvanized or stainless screws will withstand weather extremes and moisture. Non-rust resistant screws will eventually start to deteriorate and rust will stain your fence. We like the stainless steel screws that self-countersink and are easy to drive into wood without causing the wood to split. The hardware needed to complete one 8’ section of fence (post to post) is:

• Top and Bottom Rails – 8 - #10 x 3 1/2” Stainless Steel exterior wood screws (4 for each post)
• Diagonal Rails – 8 - #10 x 3 1/2” Stainless Steel exterior wood screws (4 for each post)
• Post Trim – 8 - #10 x 4” Stainless Steel exterior wood screws (4 for each post)

Post Footing:
The typical footing material is gravel or concrete. Check with your local building department for any requirements for footing materials and for footing depth and width. The footing is part of the fence and needs to be placed inside your property line.

Finishes:
Two ways to protect your fence from the weather are with high quality Exterior Stain and Exterior Primer and Exterior Paint. If you use pressure treated wood you will have to allow up to 2 months dry time before applying either stain or primer and paint. As a side note, if you have decided to paint your fence, it is a good practice to prime all sides of the wood pieces now before securing them to the posts. This will extend the life of your fence.

How to Build this Fence:

Before you build a fence, there is a lot of preliminary work that needs to be done which you can read about here. After all the preliminary works is completed and you know where your fence will be located then you can start building your fence.

The layout, staking, and setting of the posts are the most important parts of building a fence. Use bracing, string lines, and a level to ensure that your fence posts and rail are aligned, straight, and level. Every fence installation is unique and there are many variables that can occur such as, but not limited to:

• If the fence post top detailing is actually part of the post and not a separate post cap, you will need to use a string line and a level to set the posts at the exact height.
• If you have a long run of fence, using a string line for the rails can help make sure you will have a level appearance across the entire length of your fence.
• If you are building your fence on a slope, the crossbuck fence needs to run parallel with the slope instead of stepping down each fence section.

There are a number of ways to dig your post footing hole. You can use manual post hole diggers like a clamshell digger or a hand auger or you can use a power auger. Our brother used a power auger for his fence, which has around 24 posts and it made the job go a lot faster. Keep in mind though that the power auger is a big piece of equipment and requires 2 people to operate. All of these are usually available to rent from an equipment rental company. The depth of the footing will be per your local building code and is determined by your regions frost depth. Make your post holes a little wider at the bottom of the hole to help secure the post footing material and the post and provide extra insurance against frost heave.

We recommend installing the end posts first (this will also help you determine how many fence sections and posts you will need). When installing the posts, use a level to make sure the posts are square in both directions. Alignment is important to building a fence. After the end posts are installed, use a string line to help you locate and stake the center of each line post. When you have the locations marked / staked for your line posts, we recommend installing these posts as you build the fence. If you install all the posts first, you will have to provide bracing to prevent the posts from twisting and warping.

Fence design can have a ‘face’ and a ‘back’ side. Check with your local building code for installation in regards to the crossbuck design.

After all the posts are installed you can start to install your 2 x 6 top and bottom rails. If you are installing your posts 8’ on center, the top rails and bottom rails will measure 7’ – 11” long. There will be a 1” gap between the rails on the post face (See Sketch B) which will help keep the ends of the rails dry and will be hidden with the 1 x 4 post trim board. Secure each rail to the post with 2 - #10 x 3 1/2” stainless steel exterior wood screws.

Once the top and bottom rails are secured to the post, install the diagonal rails. Again, if you are installing your posts 8’ on center, the diagonal rails will measure 8’ – 1 1/2” long. The ends of the diagonal rails will need to be cut at an angle as shown in Sketch B. There will be a 1” gap between the diagonal rails on the post face (See Sketch B). Secure each rail to the post with 2 - #10 x 3 1/2” stainless steel exterior wood screws. In this crossbuck fence design, the diagonal rails will cross or overlap each other in the middle of the fence section causing a slight bow.

Now the 1 x4 post trim board that covers the ends of all the rails can be installed. All post trim boards are cut to 40 1/2” long. Secure the trim with 2 - #10 x 4” stainless steel exterior wood screws through the top rail and the bottom rail into the post (See Sketch C). Adjust the position of these screws to avoid the screws installed to secure the top and bottom rails.

Post Caps and Detailed Post Tops

For the post caps there are many options to choose from. There are many cap styles that are pre-made and can be found at your local lumber yard. There are also many caps that can be custom built if you want to match detailing from your house. In our fence detail we show how you can detail a fence top with a recess 1/2” wide and 1/4” deep and then cut a bevel to the post top. Since this type of detailing is actually part of the post, the post top should be routed and beveled cut before it is installed in the ground. See Sketch D for this detailing and photos for other ideas for finishing your post tops.

Now the only thing left to do is to apply your chosen stain or paint.

You now have a beautiful fence that will provide you and your family years of enjoyment.

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